Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
